BMW F850GS Forum

Please login or register.

News: A big welcome to all new members !

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Sooty01

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12
Maintenance and Servicing / Re: Brake pads
« on: October 06, 2020, 08:40:34 AM »
One of the best setups I had on the F800GS was made up from four different worn pads. I had no idea what they were, some original, at least one sintered. They worked in snow,rain,hot,cold and at any speed. I think when one pad started to leave it's optimum zone another one was just getting going.
I know I will be told old pads will score the disk (did not) or will shear the disk down the middle due to uneven braking forces (don't bother with that one) or twist the forks (our early bikes only had one disk) but I can assure you none of this is true.
Unless you are riding at very high speeds such has a race track or riding enduro any set of pads will work, I have found the major difference is how long they last, here I have found sintered pads don't last as long as organic pads but at MOTs you will be allowed thinner pad material. The big advantage of sintered pads such as EBC is they cost so much less.
Fitting is a 10 minute easy job yet my dealer wanted 130 to fit them during the last service.

How to fit pads -
1) Remove spring clips from pad retaining pin.
2) Using a drift (I use a small screwdriver with the end cut off) knock the pin through the calliper towards the wheel. Make sure it's not going to hit a spoke. The pads will now fall out.
3) Unbolt the calliper ( can be done with calliper in place) using a soft cloth wipe round the pistons. Spray with brake cleaner and wipe dry.
4) Gently push the pistons back into the calliper using your thumbs. Pushing each piston individualy should cause the other piston to extend. This is good and proves they are working well. Don't allow them to over extend and pop their seals.
5) Check the sliding side of the calliper moves freely. Strip and clean if required, leave alone if good.
6)  Apply a little brake grease to the sliding end of the pads and fit into calliper.
7) Apply brake grease to the pad pin and push into the calliper. With all three hands? hold the calliper, drift and knock the pin in until the spring pin hole is visible.
8) Fit the spring pin, Check the other calliper to make sure it's fitted correctly.
9) Refit the calliper, pump the brake lever until git feels tight.
10) Repeat on 2nd calliper.
It's a10  min job if the pistons and calliper slide freely.
If you are a mechanical disaster perhaps it's not something you should try?

Maintenance and Servicing / Brake pads
« on: October 05, 2020, 07:35:42 PM »
If you buy EBS, Goldfren or similar pads on line be aware the fitment list is incorrect. My first set of Goldfren pads form an E bay supplier matched the manufacturers listing but were 6mm too short and too narrow. Same for a set of EBC pads supplied by Motorworks, they were baffled as all the numbers matched the EBC chart. I eventually received a set of Brembo pads which fit perfectly.
The pads required are the same as the original F700GS and F800GS, I became so desperate for pad material I made up a good set from my old cast offs.

Modifications, Accessories, and Appearance / Re: Questions from a New Member
« on: September 04, 2020, 09:39:41 PM »
I can vouch for the 16t sprocket. Will set off easier, ride in town easier and be more lively cross country. For me it's been win win win at all speeds.

F750/850GS Main Chat board / Re: Fork leg paint pitting.
« on: August 31, 2020, 11:04:32 AM »
18 months old, did first 6000 in 5 months then due to general lack of love for the bike and then lockdown it took 13 months to reach 12000. I ignored the time related service warning.
Looking forward to the next 6000 now.
No valves were adjusted, last time I had any adjusted it was at 1 year old on a 650 single. I refused to pay as I claimed they must have been badly set so it's a warranty issue. Quick tip if you take this attitude make sure you have the bike outside and the keys in your hand, I ended up paying.

F750/850GS Main Chat board / Re: Fork leg paint pitting.
« on: August 30, 2020, 06:12:01 PM »
The service would have been 360 but I pre purchased oil vouchers. It cost 320.00 and inluded.
Oil and filter change.
Diagnostic check and service warning re setting.
Air filter change.
Spark plugs changing.
Valves checking ( would have been extra if adjustment needed)
Brake fluid changing.

The 16 tooth sprocket now fitted is smaller than the std 17t and makes the bike much livelier.

F750/850GS Main Chat board / Re: Fork leg paint pitting.
« on: August 30, 2020, 09:49:01 AM »
The fork leg is now replaced under warranty. First they said it was stone chips, including some behind the protection of the mudguard flap protecting the seal. Next was what cleaning fluid do you use? Finally accepting it's just poorly coated.
It is a budget bike which shows in every component and material. I have rust on the frame comming from where brackets are spot welded (looking down between the tank and steering head. The paint missing off the centre stand is normal, they offered to have it powder coated at my cost?
However, after my very expensive  120000 service and with the 16 tooth sprocket fitted I now really like riding the bike. It's like a different machine.

Suspension Set-up and Mods / Re: Need more low-end torque
« on: August 14, 2020, 06:43:57 PM »
Matt,  I think it depends how you ride, I'm from the Norton 850 era where 3000rpm was racing speed. I had a couple of F800s which had similar charicteristic and would tootle about in 5th at 3000. It was a dissapointment to find the F750 needed more revs and I have never really adjusted to it. On the few occasions I have pushed it to 7000 before changing gear it's a real rocket but not my style.
I know it's reving  harder with a 16t sprocket but it gives me more overlap in the gear choice and allows me to run a higher gear ultimately lowering the revs without having to change down every hill or bend. I 100% recommend  trying it.
Ebay item no 113844980900 from JT sprockets. 2 day free delivery.

Suspension Set-up and Mods / Re: Need more low-end torque
« on: August 14, 2020, 05:16:21 PM »
   I think stock it's 17/44 giving 2.58:1 reduction.
   My new sprocket  16/44            2.75:1
   46 tooth rear       17/46            2.7:1
 It will cost a bit more for the rear sprocket, please keep us informed how it works for you. Yours may be the way to go as the increased sprocket diameter may reduce the chain slap on the buffers.

Suspension Set-up and Mods / Re: Need more low-end torque
« on: August 13, 2020, 08:44:30 PM »
No, by needing slightly more revs in each gear it is much more tractable and so much easier to set off up hill or drive in traffic. On twisty roads I used to ride in 4th to reduce the number of gear changes, now it's quite happy in 5th unless you really need to press on.
Don't forget my bike is the 750, identical engines but BMW have cheated us out of quite a bit of power and torque by re programming the electronics for some reason. They never changed the gearing to suit.
For 17.00 it's not an expensive or difficult experiment. It took 30 mins to swap and the only unusual  tool is the large torques socket on the swing arm bolt. No mods to the chain are required so it can swap back if you don't like it.
For me I'm now grinning while riding, it's made a just average bike into a fun ride.

Suspension Set-up and Mods / Re: Need more low-end torque
« on: August 13, 2020, 06:01:42 PM »
I was wrong in my assumption a smaller sprocket will not fit. I have just fitted a 16 tooth sprocket with no problems.
It's the best 17.00 I have ever spent on a bike and has transformed the riding experience. It's more responsive and cruises easily in 5th now.
I think I could get to like this bike now.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 12